Yank hard on the leash, pulling the dog back, while making a distinct sound, a clicking with your tounge is often prefered. Your dog will soon realize that pulling on the leash is not an option, it will always be followed by a violent (or semi-violent) yank back. The clicking is both a reward and an order, your way of sayong: ´Good girl´. The old adage of ´you can´t teach an old dog new tricks´ isn´t true, it just takes a little more time, so be patient.

I had this same problem with my blue heeler. We adopted her when she was 3 years old, and she was about as untrained as you can get. I refused to buy her a choke collar for a long time thinking it was cruel, but eventually gave in after I realized that she was pulling so hard on her leash she was choking herself. The choke collar worked, with short yanks when she'd start to pull. If that doesn't work, pinch collars can do the trick but we fortunately, didn't have to go that far. They look like torture devices! With obedience classes and buying her a choke chain (have the store clerk help you with the fit, you could injure your dog if it's not the right size), she finally learned to walk on a six foot lead and later on a flexi-leash with little to no trouble. The obedience classes were a must for us, though, since I didn't have any dog training experience.

I has been my experience that choker chains only work for a while and after a "break in" period the dog will go on happily strangling himself. I have about a 45 pound mutt and he has done will with an anti-pull harness found at Wal-mart. It has loops that go under his front legs and with an average sized adult it does a pretty good job of turning forward motion into upward motion. The dog lifts up when he pull, this creates an uncomfortable situation that my particular dog really doesn't like. So he stops pulling. The best solution I have is this: http://www.geocities.com/jetflair/halti.html It is a halter (kind of like the ones used on horses) and it controls the animals head. You don't have to yank hard on it and it is impossible for the dog to pull. When he pulls it turns his head around toward you and the body generally follows the head. You get the idea Hope this helps.

As a certified dog trainer, I can tell you from experience that positive reinforcement works best for most dogs. Walkies should be a pleasurable experience for both you and your dog, not a tug-of-war. A choke chain can be used after other efforts have been tried unsuccessfully, however PLEASE see a professional to learn how to use one in the correct way, otherwise you may do more harm than good. Also, while the harness may have worked for the other dog owner because the dog was annoyed by it,(my theory is that if it works without harm to the dog, use it) what actually happens in most cases is that you are giving your dog more purchase to pull (thats why they use harnesses on sled dogs.) Try this: 1. Cut up tiny (just a taste) pieces of your dogs favorite treats/cheese and hold some in your hand where the dog can smell it, but cant snatch it. 2. While your pooch is on leash (regular kind, not retractable), let him get a whiff of the snack in your hand then place your hand close to your leg on the heel side, put your hand near his nose and guide him that way (trust me he'll follow the snack-if not try a different treat) as you walk. If (only if) hes still following you after about 5-10 steps quickly pop the treat in his mouth (w/a Good Boy!) and have another ready immediatly to continue in this manner. This is hard to discribe without visuals, but if you get the idea and try it yourself, you'll see it will work with patientce. The dog learns that to stick by you instead of pulling is much more rewarding. 3. Try this technique first in a quiet place without distractions (your backyard maybe, but keep the kids in the house) after doing this a few (or, if your schedule allows once a day for 15-30 mins) for a week, then try it out on a quiet street. Once you and your pooch are comfortable there, work up to busier places with more distractions. Eventually you will be able to wean your pooch off of treats completly (I find with my dog, I only need them if there are major distractions) 4. Remember: Dogs take patientce and time. The more time you put in the better you results will be. Try signing up for some classes if you still need help, there are plently low cost group lessons out there availible.

One of the problems with jerking straight back on a dogs leash is that it is attached to the collar. The instinct for a dog when when direct pulling pressure is given to the neck or chest, is to pull back in the opposite direction. You can demonstrate this with your dog at home in the living room. Gently pull up and back on your dog's collar and watch him lean forward. In any case, There are two "head collars" Gentle Leader, and Halti that actually wrap around the dog's head and the leash then turns the dog's head in the direction you are gently pulling. Those are easy and humane solutions, but in my limited experience they only work when the collar is in place. However, the other answer that recommends the treat in the hand routine works best, but it will take a little longer. Once your dog gets used to walking that way he will do it all the time with fewer and fewer treats. If you ever do need to jerk on your dog's leash, trying pulling to the side of the dog instead of back and throw in a firm toned "AH-AH" or something like that. I think you will see much better results.

I've used the "pincher" collars in the past and they are very effective. They have the blunt prongs that point inward. They are actually safer than the regular chain chokers - they can't close too tight so never put unsafe pressure on your dog's throat. This is especially important for puppies that don't have fully developed support in their necks. The pinching effect (put it on your arm or leg and give it a try) really gets their attention. That's the important part. You have to communication with your partner. Just give a swift, sharp pull (be cool), and in a stern (but not harsh or out of control) voice say "No." And don't forget to praise the dog when he/she is doing things correctly. They have to understand what you do want as much as what you don't want.

When the dog reaches the end of the distance you want it go, PULL (not jerk) suddenly on the leash. Do that until it stops pulling. Make the dog learn to watch your eyes.

I agree about pincer collars -- they work because the dog doesn't like the feeling, but they're much less dangerous than the dog driving its windpipe against a continuous collar, especially something hard. By the way, the one time, years ago, when we actually took dogs to obedience class (two Siberian Huskies -- they'd vote pull over breathe every time) the watchword was "Jerk, don't pull." They would happily pull against you forever, but if you got a little slack (the instant of slack was important), jerked -- it didn't have to be hard -- and let go, then repeated as necessary, they soon backed off. The jerking seems to be annoying -- pulling is just a challenge. That said, if you're really serious about training a dog, consider an obedience class. Most towns of any size have some provided by ASPCA-like groups at fairly modest prices. But before you start, talk to a trainer about what they think you should be trying to accomplish. My experience has been that people's notions about the proper relation of dog to person vary enormously, from those who actually want a dangerous animal over which they can demonstrate dominance at one end (psycho, in my opinion) to those who seem to want essentially an extremely well-behaved though unusually furry child at the other, and through everything in between. My preference is somewhere in between, but what matters is that you figure out your own preference and find training advice that will be congenial to your ends. (E.g., how long will an animal that's focused solely on your desires at all times hold your interest? Alternatively, how much independence of personality, engaging though it may be, can you tolerate, given your own personality and your circumstances?) Anyway, try to remember you and the dog are both supposed to be having more fun than you would have had without each other.

I can vouch for the effectivness of the halter collar that slips over the animals face and snout. I guarantee they will not pull against it. Naturally the answers about getting prper training are very true, but right now you need something to keep your dog safe. The only drawback with teh halter is that to most people it looks like a muzzle and gives the impression that your dog is dangerous or might bite (which could of course be true!)

Obedience training is the best. The instructors know how to teach the best methods for the dog and the handler. It's well worth the small investment of your time and money and the sooner you do it the better. It’s either that or the dog will have you jogging without your permission every day!

My vet had a special collar called a "gentle leader" that helped me control my big dog. They don't like it at first, but it doesn't hurt them. But for some reason with it on, they can't pull you all over the place. I recommend it. Here is a website where you can buy one. http://www.petsmart.com/global/product_detail.jsp?ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302023689&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302026165&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441777905&bmUID=1140833746571&itemNo=0&Ntt=gentle+leader&In=All&previousText=gentle+leader&N=2

I agree with the obedience training. This training is as much for you as it is for the dog in many cases. Dogs are pack animals. They have a pecking order and often they will percieve themselves as the alpha. Training should help you establish yourself as the alpha.

The best thing that worked for me was to use what's called a "Gentle Leader" collar. It goes around the muzzel of the dog and when pulled, it will bring the head with it ensuring that the dog will follow your lead. (IT's totally harmless though :-) Start out by hving the dog on your left or right side and have the dog sit. When you're going to start walking say, (Dog's name, heel) then start walking. When the dog gets even an inch infront of you, pull sharply on the leash and say NO! Stop and make the dog sit nest to you. Repeat until the dog becomes aware that he/she should not walk infront of you, you are the one in command. Once the dog learns not to walk infront of you and and walks by your side, reward the dog by saying, good boy/girl and scratching it's head while walking.......make this task FUN for the dog and he/she will progress quickly and learn to walk by your side in no time.

Go to your local pte store and ask if they have a leash called a "gentle Leader". It fits around the dogs head and mouth area. Now the dog can still drink water and stuff. It gives you total control over your dog. I have a very rambunctious lab and now when we go for a walk, he is not pulling me down the road

Just wanted to add that I have heard many good things about the Gentle Leaders! I also heard that the reason it works is because it pushes on the dog's nose and they have to breathe through their mouth. They don't like this, so they do anything to stop it, which, to the owner's excitement, is not pulling on the leash anymore!

I found sucess in using a pincher collar. Most see them as inhumane, however, It was recommended because my dog was dominate and stubborn. The pincher collar works differently then a chocker. A chocker cuts off the air flow. A pincher collar doesn't. It "pinches" the dog around the neck to get his attention. Using this with voice commands made my dog one of the best dogs ever to walk. He always behaved well on the leash after he was trained using that. Also, he was better if I used a normal collar. The training carried over very well on him.

There are a number of good answers here, but none of them include some important details. Labman's stock answer? If your dog is at least 4 - 5 months old, start with a good 6' leather leash and a sturdy slip collar, the metal chain ones with the rings on each end. You want the shortest one that will go on and off easily. If you walk with the dog on the left, pull the chain through one loop forming a "P". Facing it, slip it over its head. The free end should come over the neck to the leash, and the other end should drop slack when there is no pull on the leash. Before 4 months use a conventional flat collar to protect the tender young neck. Easier dogs will give up their pulling with a few good snaps of the leash combined with a stern "Bad dog!". You can work up to forceful corrections with the leash doubled up in both hands and your whole body behind it. But you don't want to use any more force than you need. One gentle technique I like is to just stop when he pulls. He wants to go. If you move forward when the leash is slack, and stop when he pulls, he should quickly figure out the only way to get to go, is not to pull. This is about teaching him not to pull, not getting somewhere. The man that taught it to me said "If in a half hour you haven't made it out to the front walk, fine, you have taught him a lesson. Still, you may want to switch to a head collar. The leading brands are Promise, Haltie, and Gentle Leader. They have a strap going around the dogs nose looking something like a muzzle. They work by pulling the dogs head around. No other way gives you such great control with so little force. The prong collar is now a dangerous relic of value only for its macho looks. Do not consider using one without hands on instruction from somebody with plenty of experience with them. All but the most recalcitrant young puppies can be controlled before they are 4 months old with the flat collar and patience. If you must have something more with a younger puppy, use a fabric restricted slip collar. These are sort of a cross between the conventional flat collar and the slip collar. Some of them are adjustable, Good for a growing puppy. They have a fabric loop at one end with a metal ring holding the other end in the loop, allowing it to slid back a forth. find one, or adjust one to where it will go on over the puppies head, but will not tighten up past a snug fit around the neck. Put it on the same way as the metal slip collar. The service dog school my Pepper belongs to uses them on all their dogs, puppies and working dogs, except where they must use a head collar.

First you want to make sure that you don't walk your dog when it is in a state of mind of assertiveness or hyper. Also very important to use a regular 6 foot nylon leash, don't waste your time with the zip line ones. Make sure the dogs sits before putting on the leash, then wait for a few seconds before you exit out the door first. This assures your the leader on the walk. When you start walking make sure to look forward and walk with some confidence, because they feel that energy. Your in control, not them, that is the point of them to stay to the side of you. So if your dog starts to pull or lose focus, a quick gentle snap of the leash is o.k. As long not to hurt its throat. Make a sound like, AHH AHH, if it is starting to try and move ahead of you, then pull the dog back behind you. If the dog is pulling really hard, stop walking, until it knows its not going to work. Or keep turning around to give the idea that your always the one that is supposed to be in the front. Be patient, make sure not to get frustrated and take it out on your dog. People are people, but dogs are dogs. So understand that anger or impatience won't help the situation. Good Luck! Positive and Never give up!