You are locked in a room with three cute puppies and will not be allowed to leave until you choose one to adopt. What factors will help you make your choice? (Assume they are all purebred, from the same litter.)
Before being locked in, I make sure to do my homework. What are the health issues of the breed? What are the breed standards for looks and temperament? What is the breeder's reputation in the industry?
Then, when locked in, I look at the overall health of each animal FIRST. Are the eyes bright and clear, with no discharge? Is the nose cool, slightly damp, but not runny? Are the ears clean?
Then I look at how they act, as a whole. Are they active, alert, and aware of their surroundings? Clap my hands or make a noise. Do they respond? If not, that could indicate a hearing issue. How do they respond? Do they flinch? attack? Look quizzically?
I would have a treat for each one, as well, and offer individually. Do they snap at it? Take it gently? Refuse? fight for the one you offer to another?
I would want a healthy one, that is active, alert, and aware. I do not want them attacking sounds, acting aggressively towards them, nor flinching or running from them. I want them to take a treat eagerly, but not aggressively.
An overly aggressive puppy will have to be shown who is dominant. If you slip, they will take control. They will also be testing it all the time.
A timid puppy will be submissive all the time, and you will have to take extra care in helping it deal with that.
You want the middle of the road for that.
I also would watch general personality, and how they react to me. Not all are suitable for everyone.
Lastly, even if it is the case, I may end up saying no to them all, or taking more than one. Locked in a room, or no, it would be bad all around, if I do not get on with any of them, and took one anyway. There is no crime in saying 'sorry, but perhaps I need a different breed.'
Thanks, Keysha. This November, I'll have a choice of three puppies from a litter of bichon frises (born yesterday). I've left a deposit, but this will roll over to the next litter if I don't bond with any of the pups.
I would take a treat, place it under a sheet, and see which one figures out how to get it first. The one that does is probably the smartest and easiest to train.
The one that stands out the most I suppose...
If they are small but cute and sweet...
Or if they are playful and lovey and good...
Just depends I suppose...I couldnt say which factors their are none, I would just choose the one that I fell in love with.
I don't necessarily want the one that charges over to me first, (knocking aside other siblings) nor do I want the shy pup, that hangs back and looks stressed and worried at meeting me.
I want the pup that takes a moment or two to size me up, and then comes to greet with bright eyes, a willing to be friends nature, and upon seeing that I AM a friendly person, starts to wag, and looks interested in initiating or accepting my playful behaviors.
I also usually make it a point to visit the pups SEVERAL TIMES...at different hours of the day over a couple of days.
This is important...especially if you are committed to buying a purebred puppy.
Part of the higher price you will be asked to pay is based upon the temperament of the dog, and part upon the BREEDING of the dog.
Any breeder who swears up and down that they are selling you a SHOW QUALITY PUPPY...BEWARE! No one can say for sure what potential a 7 to 12 week old puppy will reach! No matter who they are, no matter how many titles and championships the Dog and Bitch have earned...
A Responsible breeder KNOWS that while they have bred to TRY and recreate that most perfect as possible litter...you can not accurately say for sure that your puppies ARE show quality animals, until about six-months of age, and even then, while better and closer to making an "informed" guess, you won't know until the dog is shown and mature as to exactly how good their confirmation is, for the breed standard!
A responsible, committed and reliable breeder is ALWAYS breeding with the goal to IMPROVE and maintain their chosen breed! They are shooting for BEST or BETTER in all things...conformation, health, temperament!
Any breeder who tries to pressure you to choose RIGHT NOW, or risk loosing the one you think you fancy...RUN AWAY, RUN AWAY, FLEE, FLEE!
A good breeder cares about matching up their pups to the right person...for the life of the dog!
They may ask for a SMALL deposit of good faith in order to hold a particular pup for you, but they should be happy to accept it and with a reasonable and timely agreement of maybe 2 to 3 days notice, should also be willing to return the deposit, if you decide you do not want that (or any of their) puppy.
In addition, a puppy that is clearly showing early signs of being a PET QUALITY puppy...should not only COST significantly less, but should also include a clause in the purchase contract that you WILL spay or neuter at an appropriate age and will NOT allow the animal to breed at all.
They may require a separate deposit for this...that WILL BE (and says so in the contract) REFUNDED TO YOU UPON PROVIDING PROOF that the pup was spayed or neutered. This can be any were between $50.00 to $100.00, but is must be totally refunded after altering the dog, or bitch.
Any breeder who tries to manipulate you emotionally, is only after your money, and it is possible that while their dogs and bitches ARE purebred...they are not from good or proved (shown) bloodlines...
REMEMBER...PUPPY MILL PUPPIES ALSO COME FROM PUREBRED STOCK...however they are not shown, they do not generally have titles, and they DO usually have health and temperament issues...Even if the breeder says they got their bitch from "so and so" WHAT DOES THAT MEAN?
WHO is so and so? WHERE did they get their dogs from?
If a purebred is your big interest, even if you only want a loving Pet Quality puppy...ask about bloodlines, (read up a bit, try to learn about your chosen breed and who IS who in breeding that type of dog...this is a long term commitment AND your hard earned money to be spent on the purchase, and the future medical care...you may as well shoot for a dog that "should" have good health, because of planned and careful breeding over one whose Grandparents were trapped in a puppy mill!
I would choose the First puppy that would come to ME without my coaxing it ...
That is how i choose my pup that i got at the pound . He was the ONLY one that came to me first ; all the rest went to my nephew ... so we got the one who liked me too ... +5
Used to be involved with Dogs for the blind to a small degree.
The most awesome thing I learned was how the person and dog are coupled after the dogs are trained.
The persons seeking their Dogs sit in a large circle in a
school gym. The Dogs are allowed in and basically pick their
owner. They just go right to them. Was never fortunate enough
to be there but it makes me cry inside when I think about it.
(a that's so precious and awesome cry)
According to what they told me, everyone got picked. There was never two dogs going to the same person either which was my first question. She said other places do it differently sometimes like matching through personality, but felt this procedure worked the best. I agree.
I would pick a female (just because most are gentler than males), and the runt of the litter because I like nursing animals back to health :)
If you wanna make sure it's healthy already I'd pick the biggest one
1. Males only ... don't want to bother with puppies down the road and the procedure to snip is much easier 2. Ok, that's really the only one ... everything else is arbitrary at this point
I look for the one that responds to my voice first, is alert, & will respond to a toy I offer. Then there's the ever present twinkle of the eyes,bright & shiney coat...also, check the puppies breath...there should be little or no smell. I miss my dog.8( See if you can get a trial visit to your home with the pet, sometimes they do that. Choose wisley.
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Dr_Dredd Sep, 10 2009 at 05:27 PM
DudeLer 2 Oct, 25 2009 at 11:40 AM
schmee2369 Sep, 10 2009 at 09:21 PM
Gone Sep, 10 2009 at 08:27 PM
