She will eat. Just leave food where she can get it and she will eat when she gets hungry enough. Stay away from milk and give her options of soft and hard food. Make sure she has plenty of water. Animals can go weeks without food but only 3-4 days without water.

The kitty is scared and nervous. When I am upset, I can't eat so it's only normal for kitty to reject food at first. Leave kitty confined to a small quiet room with litter box on one side and food and water on the other, ultimately, when she is relaxed or just plain old hungry, she will eat.

Cats who do not take in any food for 48 hours or more are at high risk of developing a liver disease called hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver syndrome). The exact mechanism by which this disease develops is not completely understood. It probably relates to the cat's unique metabolism and liver physiology. Hepatic lipidosis results in the accumulation of fat in the liver which interferes with the function of the normal liver tissue. Obese cats who stop eating for any reason are particularly susceptible, but all cats can be effected. Cats who are ill from other diseases - respiratory infections, wounds, injuries, cancers, etc. - should be made to eat as soon as possible. There are very few diseases where withholding food is important in treatment - vomiting or diarrhea may be two of these exceptions. Failure to provide adequate intake of nutrients, especially protein, will result in rapid weight loss and a very noticeable loss of muscle, because the cat will use his own body tissues for energy. Without protein, fats, carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals, and water, the immune system cannot fight infection, wounds cannot heal, and nervous tissue, especially the brain, will not function properly. Antibiotics and other drugs cannot compensate for lack of food. Most medications work in concert, not independently, of the immune and organ systems of the body for their intended effects. Hand-feeding There are a variety of methods to get a cat to eat. The voluntary intake is the method most people use because it is obviously the easiest. You can make your cat's regular diet more palatable by warming it to room temperature or slightly above by microwaving or steaming. The addition of broth, either home-made or low-sodium canned type, to make a gravy will work well. The texture and how a food feels inside the mouth seems to be more important with cats than with other species. Some cats prefer chunks of food, others prefer ground or pureed foods. During an illness, your cat's preferences may change from what he prefers when in good health. While most vets normally do not recommend top dressing a balanced cat food with cooked meats, baby foods, or cottage cheese, some will make an exception if it is needed to get food into an ill cat. Most veterinarians will prescribe an already pureed diet made specifically for the purpose of feeding stressed or anorectic dogs and cats. Of course, this diet is obtained from your veterinarian. Placing the food in front of your cat and then stroking his head and neck can stimulate him to eat. Putting the first dollop into his mouth may be all he needs to continue on his own. You can also dab a little on his nose or paw and get him to lick it off. Some ill cats prefer to eat off a flat plate or out of your hand, instead of a bowl. If your cats seems to lose interest in canned food once it has been flattened to the walls of the bowl or edge of the dish, stir it up with a fork, back to your cat's preferred texture. Syringe-feeding If your cat will not voluntarily take in significant amounts of food, he can be force-fed by syringe. To do this, you can use a puree made with either your cat's regular cat food or a prescription diet, strained to remove the larger particles. There is a prescription diet already prepared in this form that is appropriate for most ill cats. Some vets use liquid diets, either those made for people and sold at pharmacies, or those made for veterinary patients. However, liquid diets are messy to use and it is difficult to feed a cat a significant volume of the diet with a syringe. Still, your cat may be willing to lap a liquid diet from a bowl. To syringe-feed your cat, draw up a managable volume into an appropriate syringe. Your veterinarian will provide you with either a regular syringe without a needle or a feeding syringe with a special tip that can be inserted into the mouth and towards the back of the tongue. Insert the syringe either directly into the front of the cat's mouth, or through the side in the space between the upper and lower jaw. Squirt a little bit into his mouth and allow him to swallow. You should only syringe-feed a cat who is fully conscious and capable of swallowing. Tube-feeding If adequate amounts of nutrition cannot be fed by hand or syringe, it is very appropriate to use a tube. Feeding tubes can be inserted and left in place for an indefinite period of time, or they can be inserted just for feedings, as is most often the case for newborn kittens. Tube-feeding can make all the difference in the world to recovery, and you can have your cat at home, even with these tubes. The simplest and least stressful type of feeding tube is one that is inserted in through the nose and down into the lower esophagus or stomach. Your vet can do this using a few drops of a local anesthetic in the nostril in an already depressed cat, or with a light sedative. These tubes are then sutured into place over the bridge of the nose, avoiding the whiskers. An Elizabethan collar around the cat's neck will prevent him from taking the tube out. Sometimes a cat will sneeze this tube out, but replacing it is fairly easy. Because these tubes have a very small diameter, a fairly liquid diet will be necessary. Larger feeding tubes can be placed through the cheek area and down the esophagus, or directly into the esophagus on the side of the neck. These feeding tubes require anesthesia and surgical placement. They can be used longer and are generally better tolerated by the cat. Also, the diet doesn't have to as liquid in consistency, which means there is a greater flexibility in providing the most appropriate nutrition to the patient. A more practical method of tube feeding involves placement of a tube directly into the stomach and can be used for months at a time. It requires complete anesthesia and either a surgical procedure or the use of a special piece of equipment called an endoscope. Depending upon the circumstances of your cat, a gastrostomy (stomach) tube may be the best choice. Regardless of the type of tube used, the procedure for tube-feeding is the same. In each case, squirt a small amount of tap water into the tube first, to make sure that the tube isn't plugged. It helps to warm the diet to room temperature or slightly above. Then place into the feeding syringe the amount of food you intend to feed. Administer it slowly and watch for any signs of distress or potential vomiting. This usually isn't a problem unless you try and feed too much at one meal, or the cat has an intolerance to one of the ingredients in the diet. Once your cat has been fed, squirt enough tap water through the tube to clear it. If you have removed an Elizabethan collar or bandage in order to make the tube more accessible, be sure to replace it right away. http://www.sniksnak.com/cathealth/howto10.html

I have the same problem as I got my cat 3 days ago from SPCA. Apparently those places are breeding grounds for respiratory infections that can be spread very quickly between cats. We took him to the vet and got some anti-biotics that we must feed through a syringe. We also have been force feeding him because he still will not eat. Does anyone know how long this should last for? The anti-botics are prescribed for twice a day for 14 days.

Whoa!! Just got a MAJOR break throguh. I put him beside his bowl and then started petting him and then he started to eat!!! I had to pet him the whole time though but he was so starving he really went to town (dry food). Do you think maybe he was just depressed and lonely b/c he left the shelter and is in a new place?

A cat that doesn't eat is in severe danger of going into hepatic lipidosis. Within 36-48 hours of not eating it can get really sick and be on the road to dying. This happened to our cat (the one in my avatar) last summer. We nearly lost him. SOme animals can go without eating but NOT CATS. Get to a vet immediately and before that, try to get some food down your cat, even with a syringe or dropper. Force feed him if necessary.

Sometimes cats and dogs will not eat when they change locations. As long as they know where the food is (and for cats, the litter box), the will eat when they want to. It might also be that the cat was fed canned food. If you want to continue feeding it dry, then don't switch to canned. An occasional treat of part of a can will be fine after a while, but not a constant diet (if you don't....) Now he knows the foods there, and it's edible (whether he likes it or not) he'll eat when he wants. Also, if a cat is injured, they may not want to eat (as) much, either.

As long as she is drinking she will not become de-hydrated, which is most important, try handfeeding her with things like fresh ham, chicken etc., she is probably just really stressed and a bit traumatised by the move, cats hate moving, they are very territorial. It will take a bit of time, lots of love, cuddles and special treats and it will all work out ok, wish you and her well x

I have a cat (2 actually) but the male throws up after he eats. The lady who gave me the cats says this is normal and that he is seen a vet. They prefer Meow Mix. I tried to switch them to Iams Dry and same thing throwing up for the male. I tried Meow Mix canned food, but it is such a hassle and messy. What am I supposed to be doing FOR KITTY. When he throws up the dry food it comes out WHOLE. He seems very active, playful and looks beautiful (both "ragdoll" cats). I want the vomiting to stop though and would prefer to feed them something healthier. Is it unhealthy to feed them healthy food. I tried organic baked chicken cut up into small pieces? Didn't want it. I am a health nut but I do not want to force things on a cat that may not end up being good for them. WHAT IS BEST?