I can't really answer the final part to your question, as it's hard to visualise. However, I'll have a go at answering the first part, although with some difficulty as it's hard to describe. The way I do it is to seperate a vertical section of hair from the rest. By that, I mean for you to isolate a section, with the roots of the section running from the base of the neck to the top of the head, rather than the roots running laterally round the head. Cut the tips of this section downwards (or upwards, it doesn't matter) in a straight line. When you let go, the strands should fall to be different lengths. Repeat this with the rest of the hair, making sure that you use a little bit of the previous section you cut, to know the lengths it should be. After that, if you require noticable layers (as the ones described above are for a natural effect), repeat the same again, but only round the uppermost part of the head, but shorter than you previously did with the rest of the hair. You can do this as many times as you desire. It will be impossible to do it yourself neatly, so get a friend to help you out. My advice for the last bit would be for the hair to flip over naturally to cover it if it can. This can also be helped by introducing some really short layers. This might seem odd, but short layers, (a few inches or so) actually make the hair more voluptious and so may hide the dip where the crown is. It depends on you and her, but it will be a stylish way to get round that problem.