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ANSWERS: 4
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Plunging waves break with great force and are capable of pushing swimmers to the bottom. Plunging waves may occur mainly at low tide when the water on sandbanks is shallow, which means there is less water on which the waves can break. (Plunging waves are sometimes called dumpers.) Spilling waves occur when the crest tumbles down the front or face. Spilling waves will usually form as the tide recedes leaving less water on banks on which waves are breaking. Spilling waves can form tunnels or tubes. [sources: http://www.adcorp.com.au/swimandsurvive/openwate.htm http://www.ocean-institute.org/edu_programs/materials/P/Glo/S_Glos.htm]
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Plunging waves break with great force and are capable of pushing swimmers to the bottom. Plunging waves may occur mainly at low tide when the water on sandbanks is shallow, which means there is less water on which the waves can break. (Plunging waves are sometimes called dumpers.) Spilling waves occur when the crest tumbles down the front or face. Spilling waves will usually form as the tide recedes leaving less water on banks on which waves are breaking. Spilling waves can form tunnels or tubes
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Spilling: breaks gradually over a distance. White water forms as the crest and expands down the face of the breaker. Only the top portion of the wave curls over however. Light foam may wash gently up the shore. This type of wave is normally found with a flat bottom beach. It is usually the most observed type of wave. Plunging: the wave peaks up until it is an advancing vertical wall of water. The crest advances faster than the base of the breaker, curls, and then descends violently into the wave trough. This type of breaker sometimes causes an explosive sound as trapped air escapes behind the wave. It is usually found on a medium to steep sloping beach, with little wind or an offshore wind.
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A plunging wave has a curl when it breaks that reaches beyond the foot of the wave and a low wall of white water moves forward from there. A spilling wave has a curl when it breaks that does not reach beyond the foot of the wave and white water cascades down the front of the wave moving forward with the speed of the wave. Plunging waves erode the surf zone as beach material put into suspension drifts seaward after each wave has broken. Spilling waves drag on the bottom moving beach material landward. Body surfers try to catch rides on spilling waves and avoid plunging waves that would dump them unpleasantly where they break.
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