I have a 1994 honda accord lx. As i was driving my car just shut off for no apparent reason, a friend suggested it could be relay the is located under the dashboard this a common problem, can ne 1 help

it could also be the alternator the same thing happened to me a couple months back

tony1980, I have a 1991 accord with the same problem, and I did replace the main relay. The car was fine for 2 weeks or so of light driving, back and forth to work and the occassional errand run, then started doing it again. It just shuts off, but after a time, 3-12 hours, stars back up and runs until it dies again. What's next?

There is relevence to the ignition electrical portion. You can usually check this by running the vehicle for about ten minuets. Try wiggling the key or slightly rotating the key counter clockwise , but not enough to remove it from the run position. By doing this I have had the vehicles react three different ways. One way is normal, no abnormal change in the operation of the veicle, meaning the switch is good. The second way is the warning lights on the dash panal will either flicker or shut off completely but the engine will continue to run, meaning the switch is worn out. The third way is the engine will stumble or completely shut off sometimes leaving the dash lights on, sometimes shutting the dach lights off, meaning the switch is worn out. One thing to make cirtain of is that you are not turning the key far enough to turn off the vehicle under normal operating conditions. The main relay has always been two seperate relays, it is just that the two relays have been housed in the same casing. The main relay has two relays, one contolling power supply to the ECM/PCM, and the other controlling power supply to the fuel pump, the one that commonly fails. Starting in 2004 honda did away with the main relay and replaced it with the fuel pump relay controlled by the ECM/PCM. Then in 2007 Honda relased a service bullitin to replace all mitsubisi relays with delco relays due to premature failure. (mitsubisi the electronic manufaturer, not the car manufacturer)

To much info...Check to see if you have spark to the distributor if not replace the distributor I did and I'm back on the road.

Hi, My daughter is having this same problem. My husband suggested she turn on the heater full blast and come back home immediately, this worked. We took it to Honda dealership, they replaced the ignition switch, she was driving back to school, 122 miles into the drive the car shut off again and left her stranded on a major interstate @ night. She was almost hit 4 times by other vehicles and tractor trailers until the State Police came. We just had her Accord towed back to the dealer that supposedly fixed it. Going to try to get them to pay for the towing and fix the car correctly for free.

Tony1980, I'll give the ICM a shot and post back here after I drive it a little. I was also directed by another web site to change out the ignition switch (electrical portion) as they say this has the same type of problem after it heats up. The contact loses continuity in the number ii position and opens up causing the 12 volts through the main relay to drop out turning off the power to the fuel pump. I see that in later years they divided the main relay into 2 separate relays (Smart thing) to make this problem a little easier to troubleshoot. Any relevance to that?

For all those also having this same problem, I am sorry that you started your diagnosis with the main relay. The main relay 9.5 times out of 10 will not cause the vehicle to stall during driving. The Ignition Control Modual, or ICM, will cause this situation every time. As the solid state components in the ICM continuously heat then cool due to normal operation of the engine, these components fatique. Once the ICM is fatiqued all it takes a little heat from the engine to stop the operatopn the modual. On pre 1990 hondas the ICM is located on the outside of the distributor and can be identified as a shinny silver rectangle about 1inX1.5in in size and about .25in thick with two mounting bolts. On post 1990 hondas the ICM has been moved into the distrbutor housing. Remove the disributor cap by removing the three cap screws. Then remove the distributor rotor, either held on by one screw on the side or simply slipped on, depending on the year. Once the cap and rotor have been removed, remove the black plastic sheild (if still in place) to expose the inner working of the distrbutor. Depending on the year and manufacturer of the ICM it will one of three colors, grey, black, or brown. All these are interchangeable. The ICM will have four wires connected to it, usually one yellow, one blue and two green, take specail note of the location of these wires because incorect installation will damage your new ICM. If you are working on a 1988 to 1991 Prelude, the ICM will not be found near the disributor, it will be found on the right fender near the ignition coil. It is black (usually fades to brown) and about 2inX2in with two mounding bolts and one six pin yellow connector, although because of the location of the prelude ICM it is not common for these to fail.

Hi, My 1997 Honda Accord did that and it was a recall problem. The ignition switch is faulty. I may not have the exact name for the ignition problem. Contact your Honda dealer and they'll fix it for free.
Janet

well there are several factors. 1) Is it working now? Does it just randomly shut out or did it just do it once. 2) how fast you were going. 3) Did the engine cut out or everything (including electrical)?

the question's a little too vague. :/

sources:
I'm an aerospace maintenance management major in my junior year

the Question is not too vague. All you have to do is start the car. If the ignition switch is fauly, witch is very common, wiggle the key, even try rotating the key both directions just slightly. If you are able to turn on the warning/indicator lights on the dash while the engine is running, cause the engine to stumble or shut off without turning the key out of the run position, you have a faulty ignition switch. When you buy one make shure to specify you only need the electrical portion of the switch. If this does not work, on a hot day, close all car winodw and doors, turn the heat on full hot w/ recurculation on. If the car dies in about 30 to 45 min. you have a bad main relay. On the 94 accord the main relay is located under the dash to the outside of the stearing column on the driver bulkhead. It is black or brown about 1 1/2inX3in and attached by one singe 10mm bolt.

source: I have 8 years honda dealership technician experience.

It's just another $.47 cent relay and you can replace it yourself and save the $75.00 that the dealership would want for each hour of diagnosis and repair! If it cranks but just will not fire up then it's the relay! If no spark at the plugs it's the relay!

I'm having the same problem with a 1991 honda accord LX. It just shuts off as you're driving down the road, but after a time that varies between 3 and 12 hours, it starts right back up again. Anyone know what this could be? I've replaced the main relay part number RZ-0088, and it didn't do it again for 2 weeks, but it just started happening again.

Hello All, I have a 94 accord. It started shutting off while driving on the highway. I mostly drive highway and it started to shut off 3 weeks ago. The engine light comes on, and the RPM's go to zero, but everything else is ok. I pull over and try starting it again and I get a lot of crank but it won't turn over. But if I turn the key to the off position for one second and then restart, it starts every time. I told this to the dealer and the replaced the ignition switch after 60 minutes of debating. As I drove home on the highway the car shut off again. I am bringing it back this week to the dealer to continue fixing the problem. I think the fuel pump is shutting off, and I think it has to due with the main relay. But I also considered the ICM and coil. I looked at the distributor and it looks great. No carbon lines or burn marks or shorts in the distributor. Wish me luck.
Pearl1360