The most likely source of your problem is the camera's white balance. This is one of the most critical settings on a digital camera. Most amateur photographers simply use the automatic white balance feature built into every digital camera. Many inexpensive cameras do not even provide a way for the user to adjust the white balance. White balance is used to control the colour of the photographic image. If you view a sheet of white paper under different light sources, you will note that the colour of the sheet changes. This is because the colour temperature of the light, measured in degrees Kelvin (K), changes. Bright noon sunlight is typically about 5500K. This temperature can increase or become cooler (towards blue) with haze and decrease or become warmer (towards red) early and late in the day. Photographers love the warm colour of sunlight at dawn and dusk. Normal tungsten indoor lighting is about 3200K and candlelight, which is much warmer, is in the 2000K range. Many types of colour film can be purchased in daylight or tungsten versions. A photographer can also adjust the colour balance of an image by placing standard colour conversion, warming, or cooling filters in front of the lens. In a digital camera, colour adjustments are made through the white balance. The automatic white balance algorithm examines the content of each scene a makes a best guess at what the correct colour balance should be. Different manufacturers use different algorithms for calculating the white balance and these may lean somewhat cooler or warmer than what the photographer might consider correct. Some cameras allow the user to shift the automatic white balance more towards blue (cool) or red (warm) in preset steps. This allows the user to adjust or bias the automatic white balance to suit his or her taste. Some cameras also incorporate manual settings for other lighting conditions, such as direct sunlight, cloudy sunlight, incandescent (tungsten), or fluorescent. Some cameras will allow the user to measure the actual white balance of a scene manually. This is done by using the camera to measure the light reflected off a sheet of bright white paper under actual lighting conditions, which gives an exact measurement of the colour temperature of the scene. This manual value is used until the user measures a new value or selects one of the preset or automatic white balance settings. My recommendation would be to examine the white balance settings available in your camera and take a series of photographs under different conditions and with different white balance settings. You may find that your new camera will produce images with the same colour as your old camera if you use, for example, a -1 bias on the automatic balance. The best results should be obtained by manually measuring the white balance for each different lighting condition. You may also want to save your images in RAW format, which takes the information directly from the image sensors and stores it without any in-camera processing. All subsequent image processing, including colour balance, image sharpening, and compression are done in software. Not all cameras, however, support RAW, but all DSLR and most high-end fixed-lens digital cameras should support it. A RAW image requires much more storage space than a JPEG (e.g., about 8MB per image compared with 1.5MB to 2MB for a high-quality JPEG on my 5MP camera). You will need a RAW file import and/or conversion module to match your make and model of camera. These are included with software products such as Adobe Photoshop or are available from the manufacturer. As far as which cameras have the "best" colour quality: the only way to tell what they are like is to try them out in the store, along with your present camera, and take your sample images home for editing and printing. This is a zero-cost option if you already own a camera that uses the same storage medium as those you want to test (e.g., CompactFlash).