I think they usually give u the blue book value, but really maybe u should ask a lawyer, I am not too sure

Since you did not give all the facts, we can only speculate. The most likely reason why you only received $4300 is becasue that was the value of your Jeep, or that was the limit on your policy. The fact that your insurance paid means either: 1) you were found to be at fault, or 2) the other driver was at fault but was uninsured or under insured. Otherwise, the other drivers insurance would have paid.

I know how you feel. I had a 2001 cadillac seville, with extremely low mileage, and in 2002 I got totalled by a guy that pulled in front of me. His insurance was limited at 25K. I immediately "lost" 10k, thru no fault of mine. My insurance company was NO help at all. Apparently they go by the "blue book" value. Fortunately no one was hurt, but the man that totaled my car drove a junk truck you could replace at about 2k. Now tell me that is fair. Hey, good luck to you. BTW, I don't drive a cadillac today, and never will again...............

Answer 3 of 3: Whose fault is not in question, they other guy admitted his fault. We have no-fault insurance in Mass. I made the claim through my insurance co. From what I understand, they get reimbursed through the other guys insurance, which is why my $500 deductible was paid for. I'm thankful no one was hurt, but why should I have to come up with the difference? Is this how no-fault works? Do I have a right to recover this difference?

I am an insurance agent.....First of all, unless you had a stated value policy (which is doubtful unless the vehicle is a collector car) you will receive a depreciated value. Bluebook can be a starting point, but it's generally even less than that. There are some insurance companies offering "replacement" IF a NEW vehicle is totaled or extensively damaged. But, as with everything in life, there are conditions. Even if the other insurance company reimburses your company, known as subrogation, they would not wind up paying $8,000.

Since asking my previous question. I was given legal free on-line advice that I should be given the NADA.com value which came out at $5425. I found my original window sticker that lists all the options. I went to autotrader.com found and copied for-sale vehicles similar to mine and forwarded all this to my insurance company with copies to the president of my insurance company, my claim rep, and Massachusett Insurance Commissioner. In my letter I listed the reasons in logical order as to why I felt I deserved more. I was courteous but to the point. In closing my letter, I said I knew that they would act in good faith. I figured I had nothing to lose. They called me the 1 day later wanting to make me "happy"; instantly offered me $1000 more! The appraisal manager gave excuses like: "well, the guy they sub this appraisal work to wasn't looking at an 8 cyl. they were looking at a 6 cyl. and they didn't even know it was 4-wheel drive", and that is really good that you found your original window sticker (apparently most people wouldn't be able to give that to them, why didn't think of that earlier??) etc. I asked them why I should have to go through all this for them to pay me what it was worth. My conclusion: Don't be intimidated by the term FAIR MARKET VALUE; it is a term not etched in stone. It is not "BLUE BOOK" value, or whatever else they'll call it. Those "books" are merely a guide. FAIR MARKET VALUE is what you can purchase it for on the open market on a specific date in time, it is relative. It is a vague term that you need to prove if you want to argue your settlement. I'm happier and glad I did. (just keep your window sticker!)