From http://www.aboutsnakes.com/corn_snakes/sexingcornsnakes.html Sexing corn snakes, indeed any species of snake, isn't an easy task. The males and females aren't different colours, or wildly differing sizes. They don't have obvious external gentalia and the behaviour is generally very similar between the sexes. So how on earth do we go about sexing corn snakes? There are three techniques we can use. These techniques are known as "popping", "probing" and visual techniques. The first two should only be used by experienced professionals so if this is your first snake I strongly suggest you stay away from those sexing methods. You may, however, ask the supplier (if they seem knowledgeable) or an experienced reptile vet to carry then out for you. Whilst I'm hoping you avoid these at first, let me at least give you a quick description so you'll know what you're talking about when you hear someone else mention it, and it'll also help you understand why you should avoid them until you have some experience. The principle of both sexing methods is that male snakes have not one but two penises - or one forked penis if you want to be more accurate. Known as thr hemipenes these organs are internal and during breeding pop out of the male through the vent which can be seen as a small slit on the underside of corn snakes some 70-80% of the way along the snake's body. Popping can only be done on very young snakes and involves applying pressure on the vent in such a way that the hemipenes will pop out allowing you to sex corn snakes. Unfortunately this manipulation of the corn snakes genetalia can cause real damage as I'm sure you can imagine if done wrongly. Probing can be done at any age, but is usually reserved more for older snakes once popping becomes impractical. This involves the use of special probing apparatus, looking moderately like a pencil made of stainless steel, which is inserted into the vent. Depending on how far the probe can be inserted into the vent the reptile keeper can tell whether it is male or female. Again, this is not pleasant for your corn snake and if done roughly can cause some serious problems. So to reiterate, if you're interested in either of these methods please let a professional do it for you. The last method of sexing corn snakes is to look at the outside of the snake. Unlike the first two methods it isn't foolproof but should give you a very good idea without risking your corn snakes health. The best way to increase your chances of success with using external characteristics is to have a number of individuals to compare - such as when in a reptile store. Generally, examining the "tail" area - from the vent back to the most posterior part of the snake, you may see larger bulges in the male due to the hemipenes just behind the vent. The male's tail will also generally be slightly longer and broader at the vent because of these organs. Lastly, the males may be thinner overall than the typically more bulky females. So there you have it - now get busy sexing corn snakes!

Most of what she said is true. But you should have had it sexed by the person that you got it from. Also note, that "popping" should only be done on snakes NO MORE THAN TWO WEEKS OLD!! The reason being is the tendons that retract the Hemipenis are still soft and elasticated, but as snakes get older this tendon strengthens and can be damaged as the Hemipenis is popped out. Take notice of the shape of the tail with the female tail being shorter and it tapers off sooner than the males. The females body mass (girth) is larger than the males. Another thing to look for are the spurs, these are located on each side of the anal pallet and look somewhat like claws. These spurs are larger in males than in females and are only found on Boidae. These are more noticeable in adults and can be used to differentiate between the two sexes. These methods may not be as successful as surgical probing. HOWEVER: There is The New Richardson Candling Method For Sexing Snakes. This method is one that I discovered and I've used since 2004 with 100% success . This is the easiest method I've ever used but it will not work for all snakes so it will not eradicate the other methods but work in conjunction with them. This method works with lightly coloured snakes such as albinos and amelanistics. These colours are some of the more popular with hobbyists and experienced keepers so this method should be useful to all. This method works by holding the base of the snakes tail under a light source. Hold the snakes tail on its side to allow the light to pass through the side of the tail to show the Hemipenis or the Vagina Penile Pocket. This works because as the light shines through the first Hemipenile or Vaginal Penile Pocket it casts a shadow on the second. Please note for safety and to prevent the snake getting burnt do not let the snake touch the light as some lights get hot. Sexing young males is slightly different as the tissue around the Hemipenis is much thinner so only the base and the tip of the Hemipenis are shaded. Unless, you intend on breeding your snake, the sex should not matter when it comes to temperment. If your pet snake spends a lot of time in the water bowl then you should check it for mites. I think I had discussed this with you before, but just a little reminder. (If it wasn't you sorry.) Hope this gives you at least one other option. Good luck.

My step mom went to the vet with her albino corn snake and they told her they think she is a female because her tail gets short quick. Males tales seem to stay stead and fat all the way through. Females have a spot on there tail where it seems like it just gets small quick and it kind of looks like they have a lump where it starts to get small. Males stay pretty plaind out. I also have a corn snake. She is a grey motely corn snake. but it's not a assuready so if you want to wait to get her probed that would be the best thing but they have to be older