Here are some do's and don'ts. First on cleaning: DO remove stains immediately. Blot LIQUIDS firmly with towels. If necessary, sponge the area gently with cold water; if the stain persists, you can try blotting with a mild solution of cold water and white vinegar or household ammonia or fresh milk. Gently lift SOLIDS out of the fibres, perhaps by spot vacuuming as you loosen the particles with a knife. DON'T immerse your rug, because some backings will fall apart in water. DON'T wash your rug in a machine! DO gently wash the *surface* of the rug using a mild detergent in cold water. Whip up the foam, gently moisten the spot, and rub very gently to dislodge the dirt. Use a cloth or sponge dipped in clear water to remove the foam. Don't soak it! Blot dry. This method may also be used to surface clean an entire rug. Be sure to overlap sections so you won't leave dirt rings. Also, work quickly so that the foundation won't get wet and any insecure colours won't have a chance to bleed. DETERGENTS - Harsh commercial rug cleaners may damage the fibres and set a stain. Ordinary household detergents are usually highly alkaline, contain fillers and brighteners which damage textiles, and leave a residue. One book recommends that you use sodium lauryl sulphate, an extremely mild detergent with a neutral pH which rinses freely and leaves no residue. It's commonly used by textile conservationists, and is sold at tack shops as a horse shampoo (Orvus WA Paste). The book recommends a solution of 1 teaspoon of Orvus WA Paste in 1 quart of water. Another book suggests that you use a new product designed specifically for cleaning hooked rugs called Heirloom Care. DON'T wring the rug or hang it to dry. DO roll the rug (pile side out) in a heavy towel to absorb the moisture, then lay it flat to dry in a shaded area (not in the sun!), or away from direct heat. ABSOLUTELY DO NOT give your rug to a dry cleaner if it's desperately filthy. The harsh chemicals and rough handling used by conventional dry cleaners are likely to destroy your rug. INSTEAD find a company that specializes in cleaning *hooked* rugs (even companies who regularly clean antique oriental woven rugs may not know how to treat a hooked rug). Care/Storage DON'T shake or beat your rug. This strains the backing, and an old rug might disintegrate in your hands. DO air your rug outdoors occasionally, especially on damp, foggy days. This will make a dry burlap backing less brittle. DON'T hang your rug over a clothesline (for the reasons mentioned above); lay it flat and turn occasionally. VACUUMING - Sand and grit will grind down the pile of your rug and weaken its foundation. Some books forbid vacuuming delicate antique rugs, while others say that gentle suction (on the pile side only, with the upholstery attachment of a canister-type vacuum or a hand vacuum - one source suggests covering the suction wand with layers of cheesecloth) is okay for any rug. Also, occasionally place your rug face down and pat it (or sweep it) to dislodge grit which has fallen between the loops. Some books suggest placing your rugs face down on newly fallen powdery snow, then (gently!) brushing the snow off, claiming that the moisture makes the burlap less brittle and brightens the colours; others call this method "an old wives' tale". DON'T fold your rug; DO roll it with the pile on the *outside*. This prevents cracking or stretching the fragile backing fabric. DON'T wrap your rug in plastic, as any trapped condensation leads to mildew. DO wrap it in a sheet or cloth or heavy acid-free paper. DON'T fasten tightly with rubber bands or the like. DON'T leave your rug in an attic, where temperatures may be extreme. DO keep your rug out of the sun - UV radiation in sunlight will damage and fade the wool over time. DON'T place your rug in high traffic areas that will soil and strain your rug's fibres past their limits. DO place a thin pad under your rug to help extend its' life. It should be cut 1/2 inch inside the rug's edges. You can buy such pads from your supplier. One book claims that fibre pads absorb moisture over time, and recommends a synthetic pad instead. DON'T paint a latex backing on the back of an heirloom rug. In time the latex will harden and crack, and the rug will be destroyed. minutes away from total disintegration, why not "fix" it with latex and use it for another 15 or 20 years...?" Finally, If you have a hanging rung, remember: Changes in humidity and temperature cause the fibres in a rug to shrink or swell slightly, and the rug must give to accommodate this. Consequently, DON'T stretch a rug tightly for hanging, as you would stretch a canvas DON'T staple, nail, or glue your rug to a frame or board. DON'T place a rug behind glass or plastic. If condensation should be trapped inside the frame, your rug will be ruined by mildew. If you mat and frame a rug, use only acid-free mats. Use quilt batting on acid-free mounting boards if padding is desired. If your frame is wood, be sure it's covered with mylar (a pH-neutral plastic). DO evenly distribute the weight of a rug that is used as a wall hanging, so it won't sag and strain the backing. One technique which will avoid undue strain on any section of a small rug is to sew a cuff of fabric or rug tape to the top finished edge of the rug. Slip a dowel or drapery rod through this sleeve. Use drapery fasteners, cup hooks, or bent nails to attach the rod to the wall. You can also use one of the hardwood quilt- or rug-hangers that are now commercially available. Large rugs will require a full lining to support the weight of the rug Hope this helps, Tiff