Thicker gauge guitar strings last longer and give you a sound more appropriate for heavier music, such as metal. They can also beat up your fretboard over yeeeaaaarrrrrssss of frequent playing. Lighter guage strings don't last as long but are much easier to hold down. They're appropriate if you're into shredding or into lighter music. Plus, they don't wear down your fretboard nearly as much. Take in mind that these are just generalizations. It is entirely possible to shred with heavy gauge strings. The only reason to switch to a heavier gauge is if you think it'll sound better. That's what a guitar is for. To sound good.

Thicker gauge strings (generally 10 to 56 and up) also aid intonation and tuning stability. The obvious trade off to any perceived improvement in tuning and tone, is that the strings are harder to bend. If you use a lot of bends in your playing style, then you'll need to make a real effort to adapt to the extra tension. For this reason, many players who use heavier strings also tune their guitars down a semi tone. Like many other variables, however, thicker strings will sound "different" to thinner strings, but not necessarily "better". Therefore, it's entirely a personal preference, and selecting your ideal string gauge is no different to selecting the guitar, amp, strap or pick - go for what you feel comfortable with, and what makes you want to pick the guitar up and play it.

I used to swear by 13's on a 335. They put so much downward tension on the bridge, an ABR tune o matic, that it bowed into a permanent curve. I am in process of bringing this instrument back to life (new fretboard, added splines for a neck crack, refinishing face and neck etc...) but wonder if these are now a good idea? I never bent notes ever, and now play light with heavier bottoms, on strats, musicmasters. If I have to use a .0095 instead of a .0009, I can tell, and am bothered by it. And I now bend chronically. The best reasons I can think up for setting it up for heavy strings are: nostalgia, relearning the pianoesque style I used, and the fact that it is a freakishly light guitar, about 6.5 lbs., which might explain the good sound transfer it had. I have a fresh bridge, an exact replacement ABR, and with uncut saddles. The trouble I have doing this is that many set up specs. are not reversible, such as notches at nut and saddles, final fingerboard set (relief, backbow etc.) Any ideas? The guitar played effortlessly as I recall. In later years I fell for another 335, and it felt horrible, stiff, unplayable with 10's! But the thing weighed in around 8.5 lbs. I ditched it at a guitar center, or Sam Ash. Input welcome. I realize my style has changed, but the sheer rage these heavies put out makes me wonder....

Go ahead and experiment, just be aware to swithing to something too heavy of too light might throw off the setup of your guitar. If that happens, just take it to a guitar tech and they can probably fix it in a few minutes for very little $$$.

When I started I was advised to use a light guage, however after a month of playing I thought I needed something more, at that time I switched from a 10 gauge to an 11 gauge. Furthermore I also found that the longest lasting and most comfortable strings are Ernie Ball 11's.

You should switch to higher gauge strings when down tuning or if you feel you need a beefier tone. In the studio, it is always advised to use a gauge thicker than normal (at least) to help fatten up the guitar sound. You WILL need a setup after switching your string gauge. There is no way around that. The properties of the strings will effect the intonation of your instrument and as such, you will automatically be out of tune at the intonation point (12th fret) because of the change in string tension. I prefer Ernie Ball slinky 11's on my studio instruments.

Play heavier strings if your' fingers can handle them. Heavier strings will give you a great deal more tone and can be tuned down with less buzz. You will have to adjust the curve of your' neck and bridge height. Pretty simple.