Belts in general in most (not all) vehicles can be tensioned or loosened by either the part in question or by another part that is on the drive belt. AS EXAMPLE: in my truck I have to loosen the alternator (which has a nice bracket designed for tracking in an arch without completely disconnecting the alternator from its frame) That allows me to change out the belt which also goes to the a/c compressor and the radiator fan. For my truck's Power steering pump the pump itself has a bit of movement when the bolts are loosened. For my mustang ('65) everything is on one belt only and the alternator is the moving piece. I'm assuming that for you it's your power steering pump (not the power steering itself) the bracket it is attached to may be slotted and designed to move back and forth to allow the belt to slide on and off the pully. Sort of a C shape hole that one bolt is in, then under neath the pump (or perhaps another part) there will be a "hinge" bolt one that is the axis point upon which the part/pump/alternator swings on when the bolts are loosened. I doubt there would be a third bolt since these things are designed to allow adjustments as time wheres on. Belts tend to stretch over time, it is actually a good idea to locate the part on the belt circuit that does move and retension your belts semi-annually (every six months) or more if you drive alot. If not then there is a third part somewhere on that belt possibilities would include: water pump, A/c compressor, alternator something that is bracketed and designed to move back and forth easily when the bolts are loosened. If the old belt did not break trace what pullyies it goes around - usually just three to a belt in a combination - one from the engine (where the radiator fan is) going to a pump or the a/c compressor or the alternator. If the old belt broke and you have no idea what was on that belt, then I suggest going to a parts store and look at their Chilton Manuals: If you want to get an idea what the book looks like: http://www.chiltonsonline.com/ However they usually have the basic manuals for all makes and models that are assumed still on the road at stores and they will allow you to look at the book to get an idea. Older vehicles may or may not be on display in most stores. 97 is well within the "on the road" market. Mind chilton's manuals address several years/models from a manufacture. For my 77 GMC truck it covers not just trucks, but also the suburbans and the blazier models, randing in years from I think 1974 to 1978. The book will give a nice diagram that will clearly line out where the belt goes and should show which key belts on what part needs to be loosed to release tension on the belt. Tightening a belt is a horse of a different color. In the case of the alternator being the key moving part, once you get the old belt on and put the new one on you need to pull the alternator back by hand, then use something for leverage (say a tire iron, not the cross kind, the semi-straight kind) and while pulling more tension on the belt by pulling or pushing the bar moving the alternator as far as possible, you tighten down the bolts as tight as possible. In the case where you have two or more pullies on the main engine shaft (fan) you might have to remove other belts before you can do the one you need to do. IF so, then I suggest you get a new belt for that one two and replace both or all at the same time. Its not so much as a difficult chore and its just being a chore and if you have to move them out might as well replace them now instead of waiting until it wears or or breaks. You will need wrenches (that fit the bolts) some sort of leverage (a tire iron works well) plenty of light and of course replacement belt(s). When it comes to getting the belt it not only helps to know the make and model and year of the car, it also helps to know what size engine (V6, V 8, 350, 450 - what ever it is for you. different engine sizes have different sized belts.