by 
Anonymous
ANSWERS: 7
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Remove the toilet and other fixtures, baseboard around cabinets and walls. Then remove all the old flooring and replace floor boards that are warped or damaged. If these are square tiles, you must draw a line straight from one wall to the opposite wall, this is your straight line to work with, this should be parallel to one wall if your pattern is grained or must be continuous then you can start at the walls edge. If the walls are not perpendicular to each other, the opposite walls will have to have slant cut tiles to be even. Make sure that the tiles go fully under the toilet edges as well as any other fixtures, such as a full standing sink, or heater vent. and close enough to wall's edge to be covered by baseboard.
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The same way as you would in a large bathroom but not as many tiles.
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Using small tiles and small workers.
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tjatherton's answer here is great. I will just add that from our experience gutting and remodeling 4 bathrooms; Straight patterns are easier than diamond or "on the angle" patterns. Plan on an overage of at least 10% when you buy your tile. Get a wet saw (we bought one that was somewhere between $40 & $70 and it worked really well). If you are using natural stone, pick the prettier ones to be in your main focal area and any damaged or ugly ones can be cut for laying in the small areas behind toilet etc. Doesn't really matter what size your tile is compared to bathroom size. We successfully used 12"x12" tiles in a tiny powder room. Be patient and plan on a whole day or two of work. Use the epoxy grout (grout with sealant already in it) (Lowe's), much easier! We taught ourselves tiling using Home Depot's " Tiling 1-2-3" book for technique and then taking advantage of more contemporary tools and supplies (such as the epoxy grout).
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Once a week, Home Depot, gives a free class on installing floor tile. check out your local store. the class is really good. its hands on and you actually get to cut some tile. People can tell you how, but Home Depot can show you how.
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You flirt shamelessly with it and hope it finds you attractive
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To build off what "This Daley heard Baby hiccup on NST" and " tjatherton" have said, you'll also need to lay a non permiable sub floor. The two big competitors on the market are the cement backerboards and a brand called Hardibacker. I prefer the latter much more since they easier to cut and handle. Since you're doing a floor, you will use a 1/4" thickness board as opposed to the 1/2". This is to allow you as much tolerance as possible for door opening and closing. The thicker backerboard might be too tall with the tile and subsequently block the door path. That being said, do NOT ever use the 1/4" on walls for tiling. It is too thin and the sheer weight of the tiles could very well pull it off the wall.
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