As moose sez it could be any of several things or a combination of them, which can be kinda hard to figure out. Usually but not always, if jumping across the solenoid and starter works, it means the prob is with ignition switch; transmission, gear shift, brake or other lockout switch; battery; a fusible link;or cables. If you were getting a battery jump start and had to jump the starter the battery could be so low or bad that enough current didn't pass to the starter. Make sure you got a fully charged battery, clean and tighten all connections, at battery, at common ground, at starter and solenoid. If you turn the key and hear a click or thunk but starter doesn't turn you know it is not a switch, could still be some of the other above. When my ignition switch went out I had nothin that ya gotta turn the key B4 turnin on, radio, fans, etc. No clunk can mean bad solenoid, bad starter, or again any of the above.
If you take the starter in to an auto parts store, take it to more than one and more than one 'brand.' The clerks in some of those places don't really know what they are doin, some of the testing machines have not been tested in years, and after all, they are mostly interested in selling you a new part. I am currently having a similar problem. I went to over 6 diff, places, and several times after cleaning( a starter, solenoid, and cables coatted with grease and oil can 'short' across, preventin them from working and draining the battery too) and 'working' on my starter. I got about half 'no good' results and half 'good', I also got one 'our machine is broke' and at one Auto zone, THE person who knows how to do that is not here. At one place, on 3 diff days, I got two 'no good' and 1 good. Even now I sometimes gotta do a terminal jump, sometimes it don't work the first three times, sometimes I just keep turnin the key hearin clicks then it turns. I really should take it to a real mechanic and have it all checked out, mebbee you should too. If it is the ignition switch, a dealer MIGHT be able to replace the switch that your old key will fit, and charge you big bucks. They might wanta replace all the locks to fit the new key and charge you BIGGER bucks.Depending on the age and value of the car, get a generic after market switch with a 'decent' warranty, keep your old keys and remote, thas what I did, shoot, used to be all cars had seperate ignition and lock keys, some had 3 keys. You could keep the car running, open the trunk, dump in the body, lock the trunk, open the locked 'glove box' for the map to the nearest deserted streach of road, and never have to turn off the AC.
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