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by oldmanuk on March 5th, 2007

oldmanuk

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What happened to the European wine lake?

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  • by disquietus on March 6th, 2007

    disquietus

    I'd say that it's much smaller these days, but there is still a wine lake. The Languedoc (traditionally called the wine lake) has seen a number of new faces from around the world that have brought a commodity mentality to production in that general area. This is not to say that some of the larger French concerns haven't capitalized on that mentality as well. As in most of the wine world, there are fewer family-owned farms and community owned co-operatives than there once were. Fewer, but still a good number. We just don't see their wines as often. Most larger grocery/wine concerns build their businesses on shelf "sets" that have proven to be consistent sellers (money-makers) and are less exploratory. Good wine merchants still comb the hillsides for "values" (good wine for little money) and bring them to their customers. This is why it is important to support independent (as opposed to chain) stores as well as building a trustful relationship with your merchant.

    Some of those big concerns have also brought out some great values as well. Look at importers like Jorge Ordonez (among others) in Spain. They dumped a large amount of money into some local co-ops that shipped their wines away to be bulk and "discovered" whole "new" regions for consumers. Unfortunately when the wines receive attention in the press, the quality frequently degrades or the price rises significantly. Such is life. This story is repeated in France with names like Duboeuf and Lurton (although I cannot speak for current quality among these, in the past it has been quite high) and in a variety of different places around Europe.

    Look to smaller regions in Italy, explore Spain (the quality of Spanish wines has risen meteorically in the last 20 years), comb through the Languedoc and other obscure VDP's in France for wines that you like. Examine Germany microscopically, enjoy the big names when you can, but expect to find great quality in lesser known names.

    Having said all of that, there are some terrific values coming out of South America, South Africa and Australia. There is also alot of dreck coming out of those regions. You would do well to find someone to show you the way.

    It has been said that this is the golden age of wine; that there has never been as much wine produced, as technically proficiently, at any other period in history. That's true, but not all of it is worth drinking...

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