At the coil only one wire should have power. The black/yellow wire is the power supply, the yellow wire is a power output to the ICM, and the green wire is control from the ICM. This is a difficult diagnosis witout having the vehicle but I will give it a try. Beacause all this hapend after the timming belt I would lean twords the posibility that the crankshaft sensor at the front of the engine under the timming cover was dammaged or left unplugged. Do you have a check light on? If you do have a light because of the age of your vehicle you can check the codes without a scan tool. First turn the key to the run possition but dont start the car, varify that the check engine light works. If it does not, replace the bulb, if does continue with the testing. On the right side of the passenger compartment under the dash just above the kick pannel there is a set of connectors. These connectors are usually well hidden so dont give up easily. You will find these two connectors blue in color and inserted into a green rubber boot. Once you have the connectors in hand, remove the two pin connector and with the key off, jump the two wires witha paper clip or simlar wire. Turn the key to the runn position but dont start the car. Count the number of blinks put out by the check engine light. There will be a long pause between codes and before the codes recycle. If there are no codes present check the ignition coil by measuring resistance in the primary coil curcuit with the coil unplugged by testing between the pins for the black/yellow wire and the green wire. you should find 1.215-1.485 oums of resistanc at 70 degrees F. Next test the seconday curcuit by testing resistance between the pins for the yellow wire and the coil output wire to the distributor cap. You should find 9,040.0-13,560.0 oums of resistance. If your test show this out of spec replace the coil. If the coil test good check for power output at the yellow wire leaving the coil, if no power is found here with key on relace the coil. If no problem is found check for continuity in the yellow wire from the coil to the ICM(the wire will be yellow at the coil but black/yellow at the ICM). There sould be no resistance in this wire. If this is fine next check for power at the yellow/green wire at the ICM. If no power is found go to the engine control modual (ECM/PCM) located under the passenger side carpet under the dash, it will be bolted to the back side of a metal plate just under the carpet. With the ECP/PCM exposed but still plugged in, locate the opposite end of this wire and test for power fluxuations coming out of the ECM/PCM with the engine rotating (cranking). I am not for sure but I believe it is pin #20 on the A plug. You can locate the correct wire by finding one of same color and checking continuity between the two ends aslong as the wire is not dammaged. If you cannot find continuity between any wires repair break in wire. If there is no power fluxuations coming from the ECM/PCM at this location, go to the distributor and locat the Cylinder Position Sensor (CYP). Test resistance between the two wires comming out of this sensor. There should be 700-1000 oums of resisance. Depending on the production date(early 93 or late 93) you may have two more sensors in the distributor, test these the same way as the CYP sensor. If a faulty sensor is found replace it. If sensors test good go back to the ECM/PCM and locat the sensor input wires the same manner as the ICM control wire. Once wires are located repeat the oum test of the sensors at the ECM/PCM. If resisance is high locate corrosion of wires or other causes of high resisance or no continuity. A fault in these sensors or wiring should set a check engine ligh with a code of 4blinks for the crankshaft position sensor(CKP), 8blinks for the top dead center position sensor(TDC), or 9blinks for the cylinder position sensor(CYP)