by imscrapiron on December 31st, 2007

imscrapiron

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93 toyota pickup V6 engine, cranks but will not start (no spark, no injector pluse) no codes, if sits for day will start and run fine for 10 minutes, up to 2 or 3 days of light driving. I sw

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  • by csimme01 and Ninja Cooper UNMASKED on January 1st, 2008

    csimme01 and Ninja Cooper UNMASKED

    I would check the crank sensor. I have seen them become intermittent. When it isn't working, the computer has no idea the engine is cranking and won't give spark or fuel. Your crank sensor along with the cam sensor is located inside the distributor. To replace it you need to replace the entire distributor housing. Here is some testing information from the service manual.
    Good luck

    Testing and Inspection
    Notes

    INSPECTION
    See attached pictures.
    Disconnect the wiring connector near the distributor.
    Connect one end of an ohmmeter to the G1 terminal at the distributor. Connect the other end to the G- terminal. G1 Pickup Coil Resistance: Cold (14°- 122°F): 125 - 200 ohms Hot (122°- 212°F): 160 - 235 ohms
    Connect one end of an ohmmeter to the G2 terminal at the distributor. Connect the other end to the G- terminal. G2 Pickup Coil Resistance: Cold (14°- 122°F): 125 - 200 ohms Hot (122°- 212°F): 160 - 235 ohms
    Connect one end of an ohmmeter to the NE terminal at the distributor. Connect the other end to the G- terminal. NE Pickup Coil Resistance: Cold (14°- 122°F): 155 - 250 ohms Hot (122°- 212°F): 190 - 290 ohms

    Using a non-magnetic feeler gauge, measure the gap between the signal rotor and pickup coil projection. G1 Air Gap: 0.2 - 0.5 mm (0.008 - 0.020 in) G2 Air Gap: 0.2 - 0.5 mm (0.008 - 0.020 in) NE Air Gap: 0.2 - 0.5 mm (0.008 - 0.020 in) NOTE: The air gap is not adjustable. If any of the above tests reveal a pick-up coil outside specifications, replace the distributor assembly.

    Comments
    • If the air gap is ok what can I do ?

      Antoine_P

      by Antoine_P on November 28th, 2011

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